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Thread: Flask building parts

  1. #1
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    Flask building parts

    I am still brand new at this but I do alot of 3D printing so I designed a kit of corners and ridge guides to build flasks easily. I wonder if any of you would mind looking at the models posted at www.thingiverse.com/thing:52973 and let me know if these will not work properly? Cope corners have pegs which seat in the drag corners so seems fine to me but I really don't know anything. Thanks.

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    Senior Member TopEndScraper's Avatar
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    the locating pin will get in the way when ramming the sand , it will have to sit flat on the bench too work ( removable pin )

  3. #3
    Topend has a point, but that could easily be worked around by drilling matching holes for the pins in one's backer board.

    Captn......would you be willing to send one set of those (gratis) to someone to give a test try? (Not me)

    Roger

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    set pins

    The set pins are in the cope. That is the picture you see at thingiverse.com. The drag has a matching hole. There 2 files in the downolad, cope and drag. I'll sit down today and figure print times etc for these. My thoughts was to print a set and cast them. Would it be a hard pour? The arms are about 2"wide, so 2" deep in the mold, and the narrowest part is .25". Since I cannot figure out how I would core the holes, would it be better to split the corners or otherwise change the model to make casting easier?

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    Senior Member TopEndScraper's Avatar
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    the set pins will still be in the way , if you put your pattern on the bench , put the cope flask ( pin side down ) then ram sand in it/// 4 holes in a board that the pins sit in will work
    add a good draft angle to the sides so they release easy from the sand

    drill the holes later
    Is back on line

  6. #6
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    At this point I think I'll look at printing the mold to pour lost wax and putting holes on the cope and drag (just use the same mold) then have removable pins. I did the run up and these will take around 18 hours per set to print or print a mold and cast the wax parts... Good input, thanks.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Robert's Avatar
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    Hey Captn! I am thinking about buying a 3D printer. One of the major uses would be to print patterns that could then be cast in aluminum. I have no experience with these printers so I was wondering how the surface finish is. I assume there would be lines from the printing process? Can the ABS be easily sanded smooth? That would be a problem for complex patterns. Would auto body primer be enough to fill the imperfections? Have you actually tried to get one of your prints smooth? If so, how? I assume the brand of printer matters in the finish. I could not afford a commercial model but what about a high end consumer model like the Makerbot replicator 2?
    It seems to me that the marriage of 3D printing in plastic which is then reproduced in metal is the future of small scale casting. Many people have had success with CNC routers making patterns (see Nudges pump thread!) I think 3D printing would be even better it you can get the finish smooth enough.
    R
    Last edited by Robert; 02-24-2013 at 03:55 PM.
    "Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right."
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    I built my first printer from parts off ebay and from the hardware store. I have cast one part from a print so far with moderate success which had no fault to the mold. ABS sands easily and can be polished with a dremel tool if you want. If you would like any advice or info about 3D printers and what you might want to buy I'd be happy to give you info and point you to makers, kits etc. I wrote an intro booklet on the subject, www.thingiverse.com/thing:44073 and while you are there you can check the design I put together for classes, www.thingiverse.com/thing:48548. A super easy one to build but you need access to a 3D printer. The one I use most is my RepRap Prusa. Kits and parts at ebay. www.reprap.org. I built my first one from just this site and I get results which are in the sub-millimeter accuracy. I cannot measure any better than that but may buy a good digital caliper some day and really set it tight. If you can afford a replicator- good unit. print area is important but for mold use you can print large objects in sections and glue them together with common ABS glue from the hardware store.

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    A picture of a "rapper" I printed based on Ginery's book. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater It would likely ttake a couple blows with a hammer to break it. I am still working on getting my greensand right but I'm using this printed part as my pattern for my first cast.

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