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Thread: HELP wiring a Beckett AFG Oil Burner

  1. #1

    Question HELP wiring a Beckett AFG Oil Burner

    Hi folks...I'm trying to switch off the propane and heat using WMO or a WMO/diesel mix....in this regards I have been watching the craigslist posts and finally scored a Beckett AFG burner...it supposedly worked when removed...unfortunately when it was taken out...all the wiring was removed.

    Sooo I located online, the owner manual for the unit...hmmm..but....I wanted to wire the burner so I could turn on the blower part and then with a second switch turn on the oil and the ignitors.

    I wired it up...'my' way...and of course it didn't work...I heard a lil sparking sound and a puff of smoke came out of the connector box...
    I shut down immediately...dang it. so here is what I have for wires...can anyone assist me to wire it up for use...and to not spark me up when I use it!

    Opening up the ignitor box over the electrodes I see:
    White Wire >>>>>>>>>>>splits --------Motor White Wire
    --------white wire feeding ignitor box?
    VIOLET Wire >>>>>>>>>>>-----Motor Black wire
    Orange Wire>>>>>>>>>>>---orange wire going into ignitor box
    Blue w/ white stripe>>>>>

    from the wiring key in the manual it shows the
    WHITE as L2...must go to a common block
    ORANGE as L1 for Motor
    BLUE w White Stripe as L1 for Ignitor
    VIOLET as L1 for an Oil Valve???

    My Way ?!
    for MOTOR/Blower Power/control...SWITCH 1
    I split the White wire from the wire nuts and singly wired it to a plug as L2(Neutral)
    I used the Violet wire as the L1 (Hot) (as it was originally)

    For SWITCH 2 ...Oil Valve & Ignitor I wired: (this is what smoked! I think)
    New White Wire to feed Wire nutted White wires as L2(Neutral)
    Twisted Blue & Orange wire together and used as L1 (Hot)

    So this way...1) the motor would not start or spin up & 2) no Sparks but some electrical fffssst sound and a puff of smoke ;-(

    ?'s
    1) Can I wire this up on only two switches? or does it need a switch for each part?
    2) does one part not working stop up the other parts?..i.e. the motor blower not spinning (this supposedly worked when it was removed from use)

    Does any of this make sense......trying to lose my propane addiction.............my pictures don't show anything well enough....Thanx all...
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  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    My wife is looking at places to stay in Sanabel, again.
    Iv'e been checking this out http://www.beckettcorp.com/protect/t...R02%203706.pdf on page 12.
    How about turn on blower (switch1) orange +ve, white -ve
    Turn oil on (switch2) violet +ve, white -ve .Ther IS a solenoid and plug in cable mounted on oil pump (item 9 on page 15)
    Ignition (momentary switch 3) blue/white stripe +ve, white -ve

    this way start up and shut down will be 100% manual.

    So ya need 3 switches, 2 on/off toggle and 1 momentary push button. all rated for your supply voltage.
    Oh yes of course Blast Off.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 4cylndrfury's Avatar
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    Im not going to go into detail about why I feel the ingition transformer and nanny controls are a waste of time. I will say that the blower fan and the pump are powered by the same motor - you cant run one without the other. if the oil valve shuts off the supply to the nozzle, and you have a recirculating pump that then just diverts all pumped oil back to the tank, plumb a manual valve in the fuel line between the pump and the nozzle, and youll achieve the same thing - close the valve, and oil diverts, but the fan continues to run.

  4. #4
    If yours has the fuel cutoff solenoid on it, then it's easy. The pumps have an internal pressure regulator that will dump back excess oil to their inlets, and can run for at least short periods of time with their outputs shut off without injury.

    Wire up the first switch to only the motor leads, and the second switch to the transformer leads and cutoff solenoid.

    Then to start it, turn the switches on in order. You should be rewarded with a grumbling yellow-white cone of flame if the pump and nozzle are any good, furnace or not unless you are firing an oil heavier than diesel. If it doesn't try a new nozzle- they should make a roughly cone-shaped fine mist that the igniter is able to use. Also check your points- they should have a 1/4" gap, positioned 1/4" above the nozzle and even with the tip of it. Plasma from them is blown into the oil to ignite it, if they are too close they'll gum up and not spark.

    Though it kind of makes it needlessly complicated switching it like that. The burner only takes a few seconds to reach pressure, and the fuel won't ignite until it does. On shut down a missing or failed solenoid can cause a sootball of oil squirting into a hot furnace with no blower, but it only lasts a few minutes anyway. Mine doesn't even have a switch at all, to turn it on I plug it in and then just unplug it when I am done.

    Although I recommend using the safety controls- they are there for a reason after all, the only thing that does is reads a photocell and turns the burner off after 15 seconds or so if it doesn't "see" a flame. For a melting furnace application you can eliminate it entirely, but beware that with it gone the burner can possibly flame out and flood your furnace with smoldering fuel- potentially even destroying the burner if that fuel floods back down the burner body into the blower.

    Of course if the honeywell relay is still good- or if you change your mind about using it, just bridge the T to T' contact with a jumper, hook your line in to it in the normal manner, and then run the output of that to your two switches. Then you can control it manually using the switches- just make sure that you have both switches on within 15 seconds of applying power, or leave both switches on and use a thermostat to control it.
    Last edited by einstein; 08-27-2012 at 09:45 PM.
    The only difference between being a genius and being insane is being right.

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  5. #5
    Senior Member SolarFreak's Avatar
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    I looked at the manual for you burner, and it looks almost dead on mine.

    I never really tore into mine. Had a black and a white wire coming out of it, so I just plugged them in to test when I got it and all the components run at the same time. Ignitor, fan, pump. I figured it was fine that way, so I dug no further. The arc runs continuously while on, which I'm happy with, especially when first starting up - if it blows itself out, it relights instantly.
    I seem to have accumulated so many things that I need, that I have no space left to use them in...
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  6. #6
    Thanks for the replies...I'm going to work on it some more...probably be back with more questions or a better picture...or Fire!
    Thanx
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  7. #7
    Senior Member nudge's Avatar
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    This is the underside of my control box!
    Not sure if it is any help or not.
    If the spelins rong blam the wife!

    How to build a Nudge burner (oil)

  8. #8
    That must have been off of a pretty big furnace. Not too many 240V burners out there of the type, most of them run on 120V.

    Here's the pinout I get from that:

    Pins 1 and 6: AC Line 240V 60Hz single phase, probably 6A or so max.
    Pins 2 and 4: Ignition transformer. Check your transformer's duty cycle- this burner was not using the transformer continually and may have used a transformer that can only run for a few minutes at a time. Duty cycle is a percentage of on to off time taken at either a 5 or 15 minute interval.
    Pins 2 and 3: Photo-resistor- the resistance changes in response to light, enabling it to sense the flame's intensity and shut down if it is absent or too dim. It also can cause a shutdown if it thinks there is a flame when there isn't supposed to be.

    Pins 1 and 5 are your fan and pump motor, should be common shaft on a Beckett AFG.

    Not sure what the alarm does on that one. It's between pins 2 and 8, and probably is just there so that if the furnace faults out the homeowner hears the alarm and investigates the cause.

    Pins 7 and 9 just need a jumper between them. Normally your thermostat would connect there, as it should provide 24v for a classic style thermostat to switch the burner on and off. Connecting it to a different voltage will destroy the controller, so if that already happened this controller is cooked.

    If the control is blown, just remove the controller entirely and connect your input power to the motor and transformer using whatever switching you please. There's no provision for a fuel cutoff on that controller, so your burner probably doesn't have one unless it is tapped into the motor circuit. Follow the fuel line from the pump, most of the time the cutoffs sit right on top of the pump proper but do from time to time end up mounted elsewhere.
    Last edited by einstein; 08-28-2012 at 07:10 PM.
    The only difference between being a genius and being insane is being right.

    My Oil Burner

    Want a site of your own to document your foundry adventure?

  9. #9
    Not too many 240V burners out there of the type,
    All the ones in the UK are 240V

    Donk
    Needs must while the devil rides.

  10. #10

    Cool Back at the BECKETT AFG

    Greets Folks...I made some progress...I split out the leads for the motor, wired it to Switch 1 and it spins up the motor...I hear a sound like a clutch engaging?disengaging? when it spinsup and I only get a drip out the nozzle...I got a picture of the pump...there appear to be NO wires going to any kind of cutoff solenoid that I can see..Sunday I'm going to remove the filter (old glass bowl style...maybe clogged) and run fuel oil (strained) straight to the pump...maybe I'm plugged up? I have a return line that is Not pumping any oil back to the tank yet...

    I took a picture of the wires when I open and flip back the transformer contactors...what I see are: the motor leads which I have wired to a switch 1...and three other wires that go into the transformer box...a White, a Orange and a Black....the White was twisted with the White Motor Lead but I split it out (see Picture), the Orange is twisted to a Orange lead, the Black wire is twisted to a Blue/Wht Stripe lead.....currently they are not hooked up to any power..

    I can live with no Sparker...I can light an old bit of rag or use a propane preheat but I need to get the pump part working...the Sparker would be a PLus...so I labelled the image as best I can...anyone got an idea? before I smoke it again...the transformer box has a big red rubbery push down reset/momentary button if that is important...if need be I'll take all that out if we can get her to pump oil!! I held my hand in front while the top was open and the motor running...didn't seem to be a very powerful blower blast...could I be running the motor in Reverse??

    Sorry for the on and on and on....thanks for ideas and help! I got some stuff I need to melt!!!
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    Living online at www.marksworx.com See My Furnace Videos NoW OnSiTe, Tons of Pix, fun stories of my builds, projects, weird ideas and more..Please Come See.
    And Visit the Page Sponsors if you please on your way to your next location!! Other exciting adventures: www.digitaldatatransfer.com Audio/Video Related Stuff, www.vetshistory.net A Tribute to Veterans
    and www.vintagealtecinfo.com I'm sort of an old ALTEC Audio fan!! The Crazy Cat Lady's Paradise is coming soon!

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