Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 32

Thread: Tattoo Machine Build How Too Pic heavy

  1. #11
    This one is aluminum and was cast for steel frames I mill or bandsaw those. Iron I cast then machine same as aluminum and brass when I get home ill post a pick of the coil winder with a counter installed its easy stuff I use a calculator to count the turns will post it soon as I get home. Believe it or not I used to wrap my coils by hand 1 wrap at a time . Took forever and I couldn't stop once started because they would loosen up
    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
    All Soldiers are Brothers
    Semper Fi

  2. #12
    OK nudge here is how I count turns when I have alot of turns to count I use 2 sided tape on the back of the calculator use a playing card taped to the shaft as an actuator slide the calculator under it so it will engage the + sign press the power button press 1 and every time the actuator comes around it presses the + and counts +1 from there very simple.


    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
    All Soldiers are Brothers
    Semper Fi

  3. #13
    THAT is an awesome tip!
    Knowing how to make something is far more valuable than knowing where to buy it...

  4. #14
    Senior Member nudge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    NorthShore,Auckland New Zealand
    Posts
    4,440
    I love it! nice and simple. And here I was thinking of a rev counter and computer to do the job
    If the spelins rong blam the wife!

    How to build a Nudge burner (oil)

  5. #15
    Well this will be the last installement on this build I have injoyed doing it and I hope you have injoyed seeing it.
    This last part will be making and installing the binding posts and insulating them from the frame installing the contact screw making final adjustments for alignment then powering up the machine and tuning it. so here we go
    In the last post we set up the coil wiring so it will be in place for the binding posts I make the bindings out of Brass ,aluminum, bronze,copper and sometimes steel they have to be conductive so plastics and such will not work. the first thing we need is some shouldered washers these should be non conductive and can be made from just about anything that is. I choose Plastic and normaly turn these down from rod stock to fit any size hole I want. for these machines I found the washers I have in stock will fit so I'll be using those. Here is what a shouldered washer looks like.

    They can be purchased and are of a standard size 4 washers are needed we will also need some small thin washers these can be conductive or non conductive I use both depending on what I have on hand. we will need 2 binding posts these can be any conductive metal like I said I like brass it turns nice and adds contrast its also easy to antique for those old school builds.

    so here are the goods needed for the posts I thread the ends of these 6/32 for the mounting hole I turn some detail on them so there not just plain but thats ok also whatever floats your boat I have made them to look like bullets shell casings what ever you can dream up you will notice they are different size this doesnt matter but its what like In the center of the larger one you can see a threaded hole this is for the contact screw I use 6 and 8/32 screws these are 6/32 the smaller one has a 1/8 hole this will be for your power lead or clip cord

    Pictured is some I turned into bullets and casing and the ones we are using on this build

    This next picture is our contact screw these are made of threaded rod and have nice little detail pieces threaded on to them the detail piece is jewlery for making beaded necklaces they are brass and copper and sometimes I use Sterling silver just depends what I can find to use.

    in the pic above you can see how the contact screw is installed I use a small locking nut to lock it down after its adjusted as pictured The picture below shows another way to lock the contact screw using a nylon screw

    Ok lets install the posts forst we need to install the shouldered washers one on each side of the frame to make sure we insulate the connection.
    then we bolt on the post rear one first then front notice on the front post I used a spacer washer this is sometimes needed to get the contact screw centered on the spring. The order that things get installed is shoulder washers then the coil solder lug then the binding post is a spacer is needed as in the front post it must be installed befor the lug the lug should always be directly connected the the binding post


    Now we install the brass finger nut onto the contact screw

    and install it into the front post hole

    ok if you got to this point pat youraself on the back my friend you just built your first tattoo machine. Now that its built we need to check some thing and make some adjustments first and most important is the Armature bar press it down till it just touches the coil it should touch the front coil core but not the rear one if it looks like this picture your gold and no adjustment needed here. see the gap between the rear coil and arm bar

    Next we need to check that everything is still aligned as we did before using a needle and tube


    You may have noticed a dime and a nickel laying next to the Machine These are used to rough tune the machine the old saying is (A dime for a line and a nickel for a shade) what this means is a dime thickness of arm bar travel is used for liner machines and a nickel for shader machines lay the dime between the front coil core and the Armature bar and turn the contact screw till the dime is sandwiched between them just lightly see picture


    I showed bothe set ups we need this machine to be a liner so the dime is used remember when I said rough tuning well that exactly what the dime method is the machine will need power to fine tune it so we hook up our clip cord as so

    I like to start around 5 volts the tone of the machine should be nice and ever no sputtering it its sputtering you need to loosen the contact screw nut and adjust the screw tiny amounts in both directions till it smooths out now turn your power up to 10 volts if its still running good bingo you got it rite if not retune you will find a happy spot where the machine purrs nicely regardless of if you pass 5 or 15 volts through it you have to find that spot if you cant locate it keeping close to the dime size space then a different spring will be needed try a heavier spring first. This machine runs exactly as it was built forand is now 1 of 8 complete


    Ok how does it all work its very simple DC power flows throught the clip cord to the coils the coils energize creating an electromagnetic field witch pulls the armature bar down when this happend the circuit opens the coild de-energize and release there pull on the armature the spring then cause the armature to return as soon as the spring touches the contact screw the circuit closed and the process repeats.

    This Bronze frame is a work in progress it will be an old school build I will use vintage coils for the coil washers as well as adjusters for all the adjustment screws Thos was a solid flat frame machine I poured months ago I cleaned it up and did all the carving work you see by hand it The coils for this machine will be covered in copper with a nice disign pressed into it. It will be a 1 of a kind It will get a nice antiqed finish





    Machine attachments tobes grips and tips I make and chrome

    Steel frames I make moons ago chromed these were cut out of sheet the heated and bent in a vice you could also cut the seperate parts out and weld them together



    Yes those coils are wrapped in plastic Not something I would do now but these were some of the first machines I ever built using sheet steel Id much rather cast my frames now

    Joe
    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
    All Soldiers are Brothers
    Semper Fi

  6. #16
    I will post up the Bronze frame build so you guys can see some old school build. Going to the foundry Monday with some moulds for Iron rods for the coil cores. I want to make this machine an 8 wrap it will take a bit of time to get done. I have paying customers for machines I have on the bench so my priority is those machines, but Ill be working on the Bronze frame while I do them.

    Joe
    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
    All Soldiers are Brothers
    Semper Fi

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Suffolk, UK
    Posts
    665
    Fantastic work. Calculator for a turn counter..... Genius!

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rye, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    470
    Joe it has been great crossing PM's and reading about your builds. Some great work and very interesting, detailed info. Thanks!!!!
    Any chance of a bit more info about the tobes grips and tips (do customers ask for different size grips) also a pick of one being held?
    Just how heavy are they also?

    Looking forward to the bronze masterpiece.

    Edit: Agree, the calculator counter; BRILLIANT!!!

    Eddie

  9. #19
    First let me thank everyone for the Complements. Elm The tubes grips and tips aren't very heavy and they tend to help balance the machine a bit Basicly Tattooing is tracing so if you think in terms of Drawing or tracing with a pencil you can get an idea of how this stuff effects the machine as a whole. Some grips are thin and some fat. I like a fat grip because my hands are XL size. I find I can control the machine better and stay on line easier. Attached are some pic's to show size of the tubes grips and tips. I make these from Stainless then Hard chrome them at the foundry.
    This is a pic of all 3 sizes I make 1", 3/4" and 1/2" Dia.

    here are some pics of them on the machine
    Largest

    Smallest

    On the machine in my hand as it would be held largest one then smallest one


    Grips are standard 2" long I will custom make then in any lenth and dia. a customer wants

    Tubes standard 2" long

    Tips standard 1 3/4" long

    Tip size in Dia. at the very tip that the needle comes out of depends on Needle used I make them for 1, 3, 5, 7, 8 round liners or 6,8,10 shaders I dont make flats for flat shaders I have not figured out a way to make those easily yet

    The tips are made from SS round stock I turn them to size drill a hole down the center then run a chamfer bit to funnel the end of the drilled hole this helps guide the needle to the tip The slot is made in my mill with a ball endmill the taper on the tip is done on the lathe with a form cutter this is a cutter I ground the the exact shape I want to cut.

    A lot of shops are going to plastic throw away tubes and tips they are one use then tossed out this method means they dont have to autoclave and seal the items to keep them sterile till use.


    I am not a tattoo artest but have done Many tattoos including the Tatts I have.

    Joe
    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
    All Soldiers are Brothers
    Semper Fi

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rye, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    470
    Bit of work in those tips alone Joe, you do a great job and it has been a very informative topic. Thank again, I have thoroughly enjoyed it.

    Eddie

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •