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Thread: Meuller build.

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by evlwht-guy View Post
    I got to thinking about it last night and given the speed this thing spins at I might be better off with just really thin plows rather than balls. I can imagine 5 pound balls either sticking to the sides by centrifugal force or pounding the crap out of my drum. I did come up with a simple speed reducer last night after I imagined the dents in the barrel caused by the balls jumping around or causing an out of balance condition. Would it be fair to say that a vivid imagination is the mother of all invention.....or is it the shrew wife of all invention!!!
    yea having the balls stick to one side and throw it out of balance could be an issue, The short plows should help with that and if ramped should make it even easier. However the little dents and dings would give it character. Hope you get it worked out. looking forward to seeing it done and running

  2. #22
    Senior Member evlwht-guy's Avatar
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    Got more work done. I decided that I needed a speed reduction so I put in a pulley and a shaft, now I have a very nice 40 RPM which I am much more comfortable with. Here we are with some photos. First with the lid on, the patches are where there were holes in the lid. Next we have the bearing in the back, which came from a bad front bearing from my 850 Volvo, and then we have the pulley and shaft and bearings. The bearings were old axle nuts I saved from the several auto front axles I have changed. I bored them out to a loose slip fit on the shaft, welded them to some pieces of angle and greased them good.



    Next we have the rollers which came off an old set of rollerblades and finally the patterns for the hatch which will go in the back below the bearing.


    I did try it out with sand in it will hold about 3 gallons of sand. When I get it more done I will take disassembled photos if there is sufficient interest. The motor mount/ shaft pulley arrangement was easier to make than I thought it was going to be.
    Last edited by evlwht-guy; 05-31-2012 at 11:49 PM.

  3. #23
    Mind your shorts on them pulleys!

    Lookin good! I had my ol muller at about 33 degrees, yours looks more like 20.

    Nice JackShaft Can't say I understand the hatch though.
    Knowing how to make something is far more valuable than knowing where to buy it...

  4. #24
    Looking good and good use of scavanged parts
    It is truely amazing what the mind can conceive and prompt the hands to create <--Mine
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  5. #25
    Moderator DavidF's Avatar
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    Looks good, like the axle bearing idea I have a couple laying around myself. How about some video???

  6. #26
    Senior Member evlwht-guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GypsyTinker View Post
    Mind your shorts on them pulleys!

    Lookin good! I had my ol muller at about 33 degrees, yours looks more like 20.

    Nice JackShaft Can't say I understand the hatch though.
    The hatch will be more obvious when installed. It is difficult to see when all sprued up and covered in plaster.

    I am thinking about increasing the angle. I used parts from a scrapped device and the angle was fixed. It is slightly front heavy. IE it almost tips forward.

    I will try to get some video. I havent done it before so I will have to figure it out.

  7. #27
    Senior Member evlwht-guy's Avatar
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    Got some more work done on it and took some more detail pictures. I extended the feet out further so it would have less risk of tipping over.


    Here we see the added on feet to increase stability. It is much more stable now and easier to move around with a hand truck. I was going to put casters on it but decided against it as the hand truck is very easy. See here also many photos of the motor/pulley setup and the motor mount. I am pretty pleased about this setup. I was much easier to make than I thought it would be. Picture 3 shows the bearings and shaft underneath.


    Here is a good look at the motor mount from underneath. It has two tabs welded to the frame which are drilled for a pivot so the motor can hang from the main belt and you don’t have to tighten it. By the way, all this metal is recycled too. I got a big pile of scrap offcuts from my brother in law when he had a cut and weld shop. They were all about 8" to 15" long. I clamp two pieces to a big piece of amgle iron and weld them together. This is what I did to add on to the "Feet" The two T shaped pieces that make the motor shaft assembly came from a garage door operator.
    Last edited by evlwht-guy; 06-03-2012 at 01:45 AM.

  8. #28
    I like how it is all hanging from the belts. Very simple and effective, as long as you don't get hopping or oscillations.

    One thing I see is that it will sit differently when loaded and not loaded. Meaning that during loading and unloading, the center of gravity will shift back and cause stress on your joint to the base.

    I would suggest a triangle in the back. Maybe just adding a vertical support on each side in the back, from the base up.

    I still don't get how you are loading and unloading. Will that hatch go on the front and you scoop it out? I bring it up, because I would make it tilt and dump, or something... but that would flip your drive train in an un-happy way.

    In other words, can't wait to see how you are loading and unloading and how the hatch plays in to it.
    Knowing how to make something is far more valuable than knowing where to buy it...

  9. #29
    Senior Member evlwht-guy's Avatar
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    Hatch will be in the back. I will push a bucket under it and open the hatch and it will drain out.

    I do plan a vertical support. That is a pretty good weld but it is in torsion and my welds are not very good. I haven’t put in a support yet as I may yet change the angle.

  10. #30
    So you will open the hatch with the muller stopped, right?
    Knowing how to make something is far more valuable than knowing where to buy it...

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