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Thread: 1/3 Scale smallblock Chevy

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    NJ Pinebarrens
    Posts
    1,678
    How much time do you have wraped up in building it?
    Or did you not even keep track

    welder19

  2. #12
    I started carving the block pattern in the first photo in April of 1997. It first ran in April of 2004. I was working full time until 2003 so I only had
    evenings and weekends until then. I've always estimated about 4000 hrs. I kept a detailed journal for the first four years, but got lazy about it
    and did not keep records through the completion.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  3. #13
    I am impressed

    Does the unit have a water supply? waterjacket in the head or block?
    Are those 14 or 23 deg heads?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8TXM...eature=related
    Need a supercharger for it? LOL
    Regards
    Garry
    confucius say: Find a job you enjoy doing and you will never have to work a day in your life

  4. #14
    Here is another pic of his engine I posted in the V-twin thread.
    http://www.littlemachineshop.com/gal...v=thumbs&Qis=M

    sandcrab , are you a part of the Little Machine Shop or just in a club or something?


    Need a supercharger for it? LOL
    Always the bottom line hun Garry.
    You need to order-up 100 of them to use as suitcase demos like back in the 40s & 50s. 8)
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  5. #15
    Garry, the block has wet sleeves, but the heads were cored for runners and water jacket. It took me a year to get patterns and core boxes worked
    out and then probably 5 or 6 pours before I got a pair that could be used. It takes 16 hours to build up a pair of cores, and then another
    8 hours to clean up and anneal. I don't make extras , although I have sold seconds as paperweights for $75.00. After machine work and
    consumables that's about $2.00 an hour for my time.





    HHWC, I am not associated with the My Little Machine Shop group, but they are often a vendor at shows I attend. They took these photos at
    a Portland, Oregon show a couple years ago. I am a member of the Early Day Gas Engine and Tractor Association (EDGE&TA) which is
    dedicated to preserving the old engines, but the group likes anything Internal Combustion.

    Some of the group have designed blowers for the Challenger V8 which is a cast aluminum kit roughly patterned after the flathead Lycoming V8
    which was used in the Cord in the '40's. It had the intake and exhaust in the valley to simplify the porting. One of the group borrowed my
    miniature heads and designed a pattern that would allow the ports and chambers to be machined. This converted the model to OHV and then
    they added blowers and cogged belt drives. They can get almost 5 PSI boost .

    There are examples on You Tube at The Good Guys Nationals in Pleasanton, Ca. I'll look for it, but try "miniature V8's".

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1Ygf...eature=related

    There are a lot of videos, but the one of the block and cast cranks is a kit
    being developed for sale. I don't know the status.

    The link for the kits is Cole's:

    http://www.colespowermodels.com/engines.htm

    I could not find the blower there seems to be some changes and the company moved from Ca.

    This same builder machined a Hemi from the solid in 1/4 scale and I helped him by casting the water pump. I used the plastic model kit pump
    for a pattern, put some extra material for the aluminum shrinkage and poured it solid. He machined the impeller cavity and passages. I have
    seen videos of it running nice Hemi sound.

    Here is the pump with the follower for a complex draft. It is easier than coping most of the time.



    Material was added to the outllet to allow for machining and to give that surface some draft.


  6. #16
    Several months back someone asked about how to make an intake manifold. This is how I did mine .

    First thing is carve the pattern.



    Then since the cores are going to be so small it is necessary to make a core to support them and form the underside of the manifold. I use what I call a mold frame to hold my casting POP or Bondo.



    It is adjustable and helps hold the different materials together during the patternmaking process.

    The pattern is placed inverted inside the frame and modeling clay is used to fill around the edges up to the parting line. It is shown here after it has been turned over and cleaned up.



    Then Bondo is mixed and spread into the frame to form the pattern for both the core box and core print. Below is the pattern for the core print and above it the casting.



    Then the bondo follower is used with the master wood pattern to make a pattern that will match the core print and follower that was just poured.




    Now since the runners terminate at the two planes and follow the exterior shape those constraints are used to carve simple draft split patterns that represent their paths. I used profile guages to maintain metal thickness from carburetor opening to port at the head interface. The pencil marks located the ports. The center port is the heat riser passage that feeds side to side to heat the manifold under the carburetor. It created a core blow in the first pour, but visualize this assembly constructed of Linseed oil bonded baked cores inverted in the mold with a vent scratched down the center of each core, and then vented through the base into the cope.



    These are the patterns laid out on the corebox they were used to make, but the process involved the mold frame again with the pattern arranged inside. Plaster of Paris was poured over them with Petroleum Jelly as a release agent and after drying and drawing the patterns the plaster patterns were used to pour the aluminum core boxes shown. The one left out here is the pattern for the heat riser runner .



    I just used some of my molding sand to make these cores and tipped them onto core plates. They would be baked and then glued up to form the entire core for the manifold.



    The same thing is done with the base core. Using the Bondo pattern to cast a corebox with the seats to locate the ends of the runner cores. points



    That wraps up the pattern and coremaking. After drawing the manifold pattern and core print from the drag, the core was set in place and the casting was fed from one end with a short gate from the sprue with a small whistler at the other end. After shaking out the runners were cleaned out with a small wire and finished in the bead blaster. A little dremel work and we have a 1/3 scale dual plane intake manifold.

    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Coventry.UK.
    Posts
    675
    Wow !!! this is truly the work of a gifted and patient craftsman , I raise my hat to you.
    what carb did you fit - got to be a scale Holley - sorry don't know much about US carbs.
    The man who never made a mistake never made anything!

  8. #18
    Yeah this thing is off the charts sandcrab, truly and amazing project.

    Murray
    5:55 is a state of mind

  9. #19
    Thanks all.
    Abby I got one to copy, a Holley that is, but I was in a hurry so I just modified one of the alluminum manifold patterns to be a large plennum and fitted two small diaphram carbs from weed wackers as seen in the avatar.

    Motor heads will recognize them as dual Predators . At least that's what I tell the teenagers.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  10. #20
    Sandcrab, only one thing I do not understand. You have all of the molds for making this engine now, why dont you produce and sell them? With what you have together it should be easy to attract investment capital if that is the issue. Half a dozen employees in a small shop should be able to send several a day out the door and you could start a new craze of mini rods.

    Now I guess I can see some drawbacks, how much power does it make? Ever dyno it? If it wouldnt pull itself then it would be a no deal for hobbyists. Also maybe I am way off on what kind of production could be made and man hours would simply make it too expensive. Maybe it could still be viable as a build it yourself kit with no powered purpose, I would think loads of people would pay a grand for this casting kit just so they could build the engine and see it run.

    All that aside, you really are at the pinnacle of this craft with your process of development of industrial methods in an at home setting. I mean these engines are built in huge factory foundries that cost hundreds of millions of dollars to build and have thousands or even tens of thousands of people working on them. Here you are one man recreating this... amazing indeed and inspiring too.

    w3

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