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Thread: 1/3 Scale smallblock Chevy

  1. #1

    1/3 Scale smallblock Chevy

    Just a couple of photos to start. I didn't have a digital camera then so some were shot in B&W.

    These are the patterns and core boxes to cast the block. It is wet sleeved so the water jacket was tied together in one core.
    The crankcase cores carried the waterjacket cores and the timing gear and flywheel end cores drop into core prints.
    The oil filter core is locked in by the flywheel end core.





    The first good block. It was hard so I had it annealed at a heat treat facility. It is actualy block number five. Cold
    shuts, inclusions and various other calamities condemned the first four.





    The complete layout of everything it took to build before I painted it and put it together.

    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  2. #2
    I see it looks like you got all the parts there is. :shock:
    Even the valves ?

    How does it run ? Any idea of the power?

    We do have one thing in common: I try to cap a "one" too :!:
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  3. #3
    Good eye :wink: I got the bugger!

    It runs great. The valves don't show up very well in the photo but I think they are standing on there heads next to the cam and lifters.The power is about the number one question I get at shows. Stock answer is after hearing it, if you'll give me 1/2 HP/cu.in., since it displaces a little over 11 cu.in. that would put it at around 5 HP.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  4. #4
    What is your 1/3 scale taken from ?
    I know thet don't make 66cu in small blocks but I know you lose a lot on dia s.
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  5. #5
    The 1/3 scale is taken from any measurement divided by 3. For instance a bare block is 21" from the water pump boss to the bell housing
    surface. On mine it is 7". I carved a wood master pattern so it is 21/3 x 103% to give a double shrink masterpattern. I poured an aluminum
    working
    pattern that is 2% smaller and then when I pour the cast iron I get the final 1% shrink. On the firedeck in theend cores and on the pan rail
    I added abour .080" for machining. With the finall casting I use Motor Manual numbers divided by 3, enter them result in the DRO of the mill and drill and tap pan or head bolt holes.

    With 1/3 scale, volume is 1/27th. 1/3x1/3x1/3 for X, Y , and Z axis. The reason it is 11+ inches is a long story, otherwise it would displace
    350/27 or 12.96"
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  6. #6
    I did not even think of the Z axis.
    I've been out of a machine shop much too long. :cry: :shock:
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    NJ Pinebarrens
    Posts
    1,678
    That is awsome!!!

    I'd love to see some more pics, maybe with some more detail if posible.

    Is it all alum?

    welder19

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by sandcrab
    I poured an aluminum working pattern that is 2% smaller and then when I pour the cast iron I get the final 1% shrink.
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Douglasville, GA
    Posts
    202
    Thats enough to make a grown man cry!
    Beeeeerrrrr. MMMMmmmmmm, Goooooooooddddddd!

  10. #10
    These are the RTV silicon molds used to cast the distributor cap and rotor in Alumilite. I used the mold frame to give the outside form. The patterns
    are wood with brazing rod inserts for the plug wire connection on the cap. After the mold had cured, additional pieces of the same length were
    embedded in the mold and when the plastic was poured they were bonded in position.



    A sprue and whistler were added to the cap mold to vent and give an indication when it was full. Alumilite has a 1 1/2 minute pot life so it must
    be poured quickly.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

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