Page 1 of 18 12311 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 176

Thread: Simple draft and full mold patterns

  1. #1

    Simple draft and full mold patterns

    Some pictures. I did the clamp in foam so I would not have to make a split pattern or a follow board because I needed the angle to match the
    cone angle.


    Foam pattern and wood pattern





    Pattern drawn






    Full mold pattern (lost foam) and air ring used to fluidize the 60 mesh. with the ring inserted into the bottom of the can a squeeze of the air
    chuck lifts the sand and allows the pattern to be inserted and adjusted, then minimal air allows it to be withdrawn and the bed settles for casting.








    Casting on sand.







    Finished table.









    Foundry setup. The furnace is running based on the orange ring at the lifting body gap. I have been pouring cast iron and aluminum with this
    furnace for almost 15 years on the original refractory, but have to periodiclly clean up this gap because of slag that gets onto the surface
    and holds them apart.



  2. #2
    And the logical next question is: what did you use as refractory ?

  3. #3
    Senior Member machinemaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    1,885
    Blog Entries
    3
    Dang, nice looking furnace, shop and casting.
    kent

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by machinemaker
    Dang, nice looking furnace, shop and casting.
    kent
    I'll second that! And welcome to these forums, I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work.

  5. #5
    Thanks for the welcome.

    The furnace is Gingerey's crucible furnace fired on propane. I built it in about 1994 using a direct drive for the fan and a 3000 degree castable
    refractory by Shastacrete. Still on the original refractory although as I mentioned in another the post the furnace is fired in the photo and the
    orange ring shows where slag gets between the lifting body and the base so I grind that back occaisionally.

    Sorry about the wide photo's. They make it a pain to view.

    I built the 1/3 scale smallblock Chevy in cast iron that shows in the My Little Machine shop link HHWC posted under V-twin in Model Engines and
    engineering. More on that later, but I posted photos of a 1/3 scale Harley I have started.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  6. #6
    More patterns. These are spacers for the exhaust manifold of a 2006 Chevy Colorado 2.8 to offset
    the exhaust manifold to allow the driveline of the CJ 5 to pass between the engine and the manifold.


    The foam pattern with the layout of the bosses on the block.





    The spacers mounted on sprue before coating.





    It went into the same bucket as the clamp pattern above. The castings required minimal machining,
    just milled the faces parallel and drilled the bolt holes. I used the pink foam for smooth surface finish ,
    and the white which seems to be less dense for the bulkier sprue. Bee's wax is used to fill voids and
    imperfections before the pattern is coated and it vaporizes like the foam.

  7. #7
    Nice work sandcrab.

  8. #8
    this castable refractory is impressive, as is your work !

  9. #9
    I like that air ring thing. How many holes are in it and how much psi do you use ?
    I fear without more info I would get a face-full of sand. :shock:

    If I could get my "spray can" foam or "hot glue" patterns to work, it would be just the thing that I could use.
    http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/...asc&highlight=
    Heat them up, mold them out.

  10. #10
    HHWC , the shop air comes in at about 120 PSI so caution is required when starting the air bed. The holes are
    about 1/16 " pointing down to to get max. aeration and gentle puffs are best. You are right, the first time I took a snootful.
    Also only one tree per can because when one is set and you add air to insert another the first one floats to the top.
    I don't think green sand vents well enough to allow the foam to gas off.

    If I were going to try the clown (other than full lost wax)I would make a waterglass bonded two part mold in
    a flask that would allow the sprue to exit on the parting line and pour vertically. Maybe even with pot metal do
    a sludge pour by inverting the mold as soon as the skin solidified and dumping out the still molten interior. It's all in the timing.
    I think I saw a flask like that on Lionel's page.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •