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Thread: Thoughts on large, thin sand casting

  1. #1
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    Thoughts on large, thin sand casting

    Up till now, I have done all of my casting as investment (POP/Sand) using lost PLA. I am not 'into' casting. I do it to make parts I need... so it's a means to an end, not a hobby in itself.

    Now I have an Oil Pan to cast. This is too large for the process I have been using - the weight would not be manageable and it likely would not fit in my kiln for burnout.

    So, I am finishing up the plug for this and am planning on sand casting it using greensand. I have sand, bentonite and water. My crucible is plenty large enough for this.

    I am looking for a bit of guidance in lieu of a bunch of trial and error!

    This is a Dry Sump Oil Pan for a 1UZFE: https://gallery.autodesk.com/fusion360/projects/1uzfe-dry-sump-oil-pan?popupSNS=true

    It is roughly 22" (550mm) x 14" (350mm) x 1.5" (40mm). The edges are 1/2" (12mm) and the thinnest areas are 0.2" (5mm).

    I am looking for suggestions on:

    - Depth for each side of the flask
    - Sprue/Vent/Riser config

    Any help would be appreciated!
    Last edited by Frank833; 02-13-2018 at 01:43 AM. Reason: Fix Link

  2. #2
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    Sorry, I think I posted a private link, try this one: http://a360.co/2EyvE4b

  3. #3
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    Here's a pattern from the Navy foundry manual.



    I made one a little smaller and it worked fine on a 1/4" plaque. With your 22" length you might have to use an extra ingate on each side and a couple vents on the rear wouldn't hurt either. Risers could be added on the gates if you have fill/shrink problems.
    Bones

  4. #4
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    Thanks, that helps. I assume I should be pouring this so the concave part is down, correct?

  5. #5
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    This is how I did the runner and gates.







    The runner is rammed in the drag, flipped over and the pattern was placed on it and rammed in the cope.

    Since you have a hollow bottom, ram the pattern in the cope first, flip it over, place the runner on it and then ram the drag.

    How many of those do you plan on making?
    Bones

  6. #6
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    I plan on making 2. We tend to blow motors in this car, so we are building 2 this time around...

    IMG_8954b.JPG

  7. #7
    Nice SL-C. I own #50.



    Best,
    Kelly
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    My furnace build ----- I toil and fettle then foam turns to metal!

  8. #8
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    Cool! I'm switching mine to 1UZFE (4L Quad Cam) with a Turbo...

  9. #9
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    Nice cars fellas.
    That's going to be a pretty heavy mold for conventional sand casting. The issue that jumps out at me is the size of the cope. It has to be deep enough to support itself. With gating your probably looking at a mold size of at least 26x20". Granted your drag doesn't need to be too awful deep because it will likely not be lifted without support, maybe 3" or so, but the cope will need to be quite a bit thicker, maybe 6" with internal support, maybe more. That'll be close to 400 lbs. That can be overcome with the right equipment or strong enough men but would be a giant pain in the ass. You may be up for it though. Perhaps sodium silicate would be an option instead of plain greensand.

    Pete

  10. #10
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    Sodium silicate is an option. While I don’t have c02 I don’t mind buying a smaller bottle if needed. I’m a bit old and fat to be man handling 400lbs. SS is available by the gallon from a supplier in town.

    26x20 sounds about right.

    - Would my argon regulators work on a c02 bottle?
    - How much thinner cope/drag can I get away with?

    Being setup for SS would open up other options down the road. And I have places here at the house where I would be happy to dump the crunchy sand.

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