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Thread: Making 85-5-5-5 brass

  1. #11
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    Looking great.

    I have only tried brass once, and the plume of white smoke is a show stopper for me living in the city. Shame as I have a whole bucket of old taps and fittings.
    Mark

  2. #12
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    I would say that you have done a pretty good job there Robert, well done.

    Did you use any cu/phos shot to degas? The lack of any "cauliflower head" on your runner and riser would suggest to me that they are pretty well gas free. Like a lot of my melts, it would be interesting to know what the final metal composition is.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Robert's Avatar
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    I did not degas not having any Cu phos. The small flat cylinder has some porosity in it. Not sure if gas or sand. The others appear to be good. The color looks great. I think I hit the mark pretty close but I have no way to check it.





    Does not machine to a very smooth finish but polishes up as shown with a few seconds of fine sand paper.

    Robert
    "Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right."
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  4. #14
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    Phosphor/copper can be had from your local welding supplier.

    http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e.../Harris-0.aspx
    When I die, Heaven can wait—I want to go to McMaster-Carr.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Robert's Avatar
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    Kent- Are you saying I did the right thing by making my own brass? If so I thank you for chiming in! I just wish I had seen Richards post about a source for phosphor copper. I would have used that in my melt. He should really check the site more often
    Robert
    "Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right."
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  6. #16
    Senior Member HT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by machinemaker View Post
    after a bit of biting my tongue, I thought I would make a comment. For years I used a furnace that was built out of a cut off 55gal drum with 2.5 inches of low density concrete and 2" of ceramic fiber, no hot face. the burner was a blower assisted propane burner and I used a # 20 silicon carbide crucible. I could get 2-3 melts of silicon bronze with a #20 propane bottle. basically 2.5 melts in cold weather and 3 melts in the summer. Granted I was melting at 9500 ft above sea level so at a lower elevation it should have done 3 melts per #20 bottle. I always found alloying cheaper than buying ingots. for fuel efficiency I really think that you need to have more space between the pot and the refractory to give time for the fuel to burn, slow down velocity and transfer heat. But that is just my opinion after building furnaces for 40 years. Oh yah, after 3 melts I could still put my hand on the outside of the furnace. I am getting ready to build my next furnace for a # 12 or 16 pot, it will have a 16 ga shell, a layer of low density concrete, 2" of ceramic fiber and a blower assisted burner. I will try to take photos.
    kent
    we should probably get a moderator to move this, but if you have a proven furnace design 3 times more efficient than mine, I would love some details... I have always thought the opening in the top of a furnace was more critical then it is being given credit for


    V/r HT1

    P.S. Please share

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by HT1 View Post
    we should probably get a moderator to move this, but if you have a proven furnace design 3 times more efficient than mine, I would love some details... I have always thought the opening in the top of a furnace was more critical then it is being given credit for


    V/r HT1

    P.S. Please share
    Agreed - I am in the process of building a new furnace expressly for bronze and would like to see your proven design.

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