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Thread: Suggestions of new foundry

  1. #11
    Here is a piece that I cast using the above hard-brick furnace, to give an idea of the size and weight of an object that can be cast with this size brick furnace using a #10 crucible.

    With runners and sprue, the total poured weight was probably 6.5 lbs.
    I could probably pour about 10 lbs aluminum maximum using a #10 crucible.

    Its an 8.6" diameter flywheel; finished machined weight is 5.0 lbs. (356 aluminum).

    A single wood spoke was hand carved first, then six spokes cast from that pattern, and then the spokes assembled with a wood hub and rim.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cjcaster; 03-17-2017 at 06:50 AM.

  2. #12
    That is a great looking cast. I don't think my burner would have any trouble in a 7.5 foundry for space has it is what I had before you 50/50 sand /plaster of Paris. But I'm convinced to got with 8. Hopefully that way I will get something life and proper use out of this furnace with being totally limited. I'm thinking of building another burner, with a bit more control, as I run mine a bit crazy right now.

    What size of Tuyere should I have to accommodate most burners? I'm just going to cement in a piece of heavy pipe.

    And this my be a stupid question, but if I left the furnance outside in the weather would the bricks absorb moisture and possibly cause me troubles?

  3. #13
    Here's a video of my burner after i made it. Had to try it out, might of went a little crazy with it. LOL. also i usually run everything through my burner, run mostly on veg oil, but sometimes mixed with motor oil and old diesel. Would mixing fuels cause any casting/melting problems?

  4. #14
    I generally use either a 2" or 2.25" diameter burner tube, but if you are using crucibles smaller than a #10, you can go a bit smaller than that.

    If your furnace gets wet, just run the burner on a very low heat for an hour or so until the steam stops coming out of the bricks, and then ramp the burner up slowly to finish the drying process (may take a few hours).

  5. #15
    I played around with a pre-combustion-style burner a few months ago, but I could not get good control over it.
    They do work if you can get them tuned just right, but the tuning can be tricky.
    The preheat chambers do not last long at that temperature either, so unless you use stainless, you will be replacing it often.

    Mixing fuels is not a problem as long as it is quality fuel without contaminates such as water.

    The drip style oil burners are more controllable, but need a propane preheat.
    The siphon nozzle oil burners will start on diesel without propane, and are the most stable of all burners (mine has not required any adjustments over multiple melts and years of operation), but they do require a good air compressor.
    The trick to getting consistent operation with a siphon burner is knowing how to set it up initially (its not that difficult), and using about 5 psi to pressurize the fuel tank. Once everything is adjusted, you basically never change the settings again; works perfectly every time if you keep your fuel clean, and use quality fuel with an inline fuel filter.
    Don't a siphon nozzle burner in a hot furnace when the burner is turned off at the end of a melt, to prevent melting the o-ring in the nozzle.

  6. #16
    I have used a 9mm atomizer type waste oil burner but it was problematic, what would be a few good waste oil burner designs, that can be made with easy to find parts?

    I think my current burner can be control better if I had a needle valve to control the oil and possibly a vent to let air off the blower/add a dimmer.

  7. #17
    I have seen a guy successfully melt iron with a precombustion burner like yours, but it was all stainless.
    He did use a dimmer switch on the leaf blower.
    I built a larger version but could never get it to work right.

    There is a video on building a siphon nozzle burner, I will look it up tonight.
    I am on my phone right now.

    The drip-style burners work well and will tolerate a lesser quality fuel, and you dont need an air compressor, but you have to preheat with propane.

    Do a ytube search for "DIY metal casting propane & waste oil furnace burner".
    I do not use propane since I use diesel, so I only have a compressed air line and an oil line.
    I am going to start using waste oil, so I will start with diesel and then valve over to the waste oil tank when the furnace gets hot.

    Here is the link to the siphon nozzle burner build:
    Last edited by cjcaster; 03-16-2017 at 09:08 PM.

  8. #18
    Going to try to pick up the stuff tomorrow to start building the foundry. But I was thinking if I could make a burner similar to the one I have use I got fire bricks and hitemp cement. I have seen them made with refractory, so I see no reason it wouldn't work. Also thanks for all the help the forum has supplied me. I will be uploading some build photos and hopefully contributing to the forum in the future.

  9. #19
    Administrator Site Admin
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    Dec 2005
    Huatulco, Mexico
    Here are some shots of a pre-cumbustion waste oil burner I made from Mizzou castable refractory a few years ago as a test for a possible burn-out kiln burner. It worked great, but proved to require too much attention for a three or four day burn out.

    When I die, Heaven can wait—I want to go to McMaster-Carr.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Tobho Mott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by CoJax View Post
    I have used a 9mm atomizer type waste oil burner but it was problematic, what would be a few good waste oil burner designs, that can be made with easy to find parts?

    I think my current burner can be control better if I had a needle valve to control the oil and possibly a vent to let air off the blower/add a dimmer.
    Agreed, a needle valve for the oil and a way to control the blower air is essential if you want to be able to control your burner and thus your furnace's interior atmosphere. And being able to do that is pretty important.

    As for an easy to build oil burner built out of easy to find parts, here's mine. No welding required, all parts are from the plumbing aisle at my local small box hardware store, other than a turkey fryer regulator for the propane, a tube with a long threaded section on one end from a thrift store lamp, and the only tools needed were two wrenches, plus there was one hole I had to drill and tap threads into for the propane line to screw into. It's basically a Moya burner, which is similar to Lionel's Hot Shot design which can be found on Those are drip type designs BTW.

    Pics of mine in early stages, since that is the only "exploded view" I have. This is before the threaded hole for the propane line was added, and the 6" nipple burner tube here was only for example; I have a 12" piece of black pipe in there now.

    Attachment 14201

    Attachment 14200

    Attachment 14203

    The oil line screws directly into the lamp tube which has a threaded end long enough to pass all the way through the plug at the back end; this is the major difference from Moya's original design; he made his own plug and it is used as a coupler.

    Here's another couple pix of mine in its completed state, with a sleeve added to hold it centered in the tuyere. The sleeve nests into the tuyere nicely; they are made out of bits of interlocking exhaust tubing designed to fit together.

    Attachment 18109

    Attachment 18110

    Later I stuffed the gap between the burner tube and sleeve with ceramic fiber blanket scraps to keep the flames from blowing back out at my fuel lines.

    Maybe you can find an easier one to build and find parts for, but I couldn't. But I probably could have built it using less pieces if they'd had better selection in the plumbing aisle... Hope this helps.

    Tobho had learned to work Valyrian steel at the forges of Qohor as a boy. Only a man who knew the spells could take old weapons and forge them anew.

    How I built my oil furnace | My Photo Album | My Videos

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