People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.
What are some good high-temperature. anti-corrosive paints? I am trying to project the outside of my furnace and my crucible tongs. I am looking for orange and black for colors. Thank you!
BBQ paint. But it still won't survive going in and out of the furnace.
I'm with Jabboy. Don't worry about painting a furnace. I did, but the first time you open the lid at iron temps, you burnt off a decent part of that paint.
Well... Too late! Painted the furnace, crucible tongs and pipe with 500 degree F paint. It may burn off but we did it anyway.
I actually just updated my build post with my flask box build and painted tools gallery. I am finished gathering materials and am ready for my first pour tomorrow!
Thank you all for making this possible.
Sorry I didn't post this right after, been busy for the last week with rehearsals but I got these done last weekend!
I finished tools and created my first casts!
Link to Album : http://imgur.com/a/Etnek
First casting video.
All in all, they came out pretty well except for some issues; the bottom of the hand is a complete mess because the sand moved when the piece was removed and an air bubble formed stopping the flow of metal in the rest of the ulna. I also forgot to add separating powder at the beginning so that was probably another issue.
I'm pretty happy with the test pour and since my skeleton has arrived, I've begun scheduling my actual pours for the skeleton; I'm going to start with the easier pieces first and go from there. I refurbished my Petrobond with thirty-weight motor oil using a rolling pin and some other supplies to mix it. It sticks well to itself but I probably still need to buy fresh Petrobond since I don't have enough to completely fill my large molding box.
I found out that the face of my skeleton comes off which is great because I don't have to do the middle section of the skull all at once. That means the hardest casts are going to be the vertebrae so I tried them out knowing that they would probably fail.
The sand that was supposed to stick to the top of the box didn't and ruined the mold. I had spent seven hours on the mold already and decided to try another day. I think my issues were that I didn't orientated them properly and attempted far too many at once. I am thinking about making a small box to do one or two vertebra at once and do one-two vertebra done every time I do a larger casting. Any suggestions on how to handle them?
Also, after many failed calls to auto shops, I resorted to buying a 5 dollar hack saw and blades and went to work. About two hours per cut; 2 down, 4 to go.
Thank you all for making this possible! I can't wait to crank out some nice pieces and start assembling my sculpture.
Off to a bit of a rough start but you will get it sorted after a couple pours.
Good to see ya keeping with it!
A calm sea does not make a skilled sailor....
What size is that crucible? Looked REALLY heavy for you. Did you remember to use 2 layers of card board under it at all times???? Keeps the plinth from sticking.
In shank/pour mode your tongshank has the entire crucible several inches below the pivot point/handle, whereas in a standard shank its weight is balanced, partly above and partly below it. I wondered if this might have been part of the reason the pour looked a bit awkward, rather than the weight.
Looked like it went more of less ok though, I'm sure you'll get any molding and pouring difficulties/issues figured out soon with a little practice. I think maybe you need to pour a little harder to get those molds to stop freezing off before the mold is full; the patterns don't look skinny enough to get the blame for that. If your sprue is skinnier at the bottom than at the top, it is pretty easy to keep it choked full throughout the pour, which may help also in filling the mold. If I'm wrong about any of this, I blame my tiny phone screen; they aren't coming to fix my home internet until tomorrow... Shingles on my roof went and sanded the insulation off the wire until it gave up altogether.