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Thread: Planning stages of new furnace build

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Petee716 View Post
    This page has a pretty neat tool for layout.
    Read the linked tutorial. It's a short and informative read.
    That is a very cool tool for this layout!! Thanks for posting!

  2. #22
    Hey Petee, I played with that calculator, looks cool. I think I understand the basics. Example. 18" Cylinder, 3" branch pipe (tuyere) but WHAT ANGLE??? 30? Is this the angle viewed from the top of the furnace looking down at which the tuyere pipe mounts to the furnace body? If set right, my guess is this sets the angle to get the necessary swirl effect?
    Thanks for clearing this up for me. (public schools math for idiots here!) lol
    Visit me:
    "Sometimes by losing a battle you find a new way to win the war"
    -- Donald Trump --

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Buffalo, NY
    The angle looking from the side is the "angle". It decides whether the air blast is pointing up or down. We want it straight. So we want an angle of 90. The pipe comes straight in perpendicular.
    What we would normally think of as the angle looking from the top is the "offset". 0 offset would give a centered T. It's what allows you to move the branch pipe off center.
    In your example subtract the branch pipe major radius from the cylinder major radius to get the offset. 9-1.5=7.5. This brings the edge of the branch pipe tangent to the cylinder.
    But... we want to be tangent to the inner bore of the furnace so that's the cylinder diameter we want to use.
    This will give a CCW swirl. A negative offset brings it to the other side of the cylinder giving a CW swirl. You have to decide which side of the debate you're on lol. (Actually since we're at an angle of 90 you can just invert your pattern).
    I cut my pipe end first and marked the tank with it. Once the tank is cut you can place your inner form and mark it with the pipe end.


  4. #24
    Awesome Petee. I get it now. Slick tool. Wish I had it when I built my furnace. I'll use it next time thats for sure!
    Visit me:
    "Sometimes by losing a battle you find a new way to win the war"
    -- Donald Trump --

  5. #25
    BIG day today.. Picked up 55lbs of Kastolite 30, 150lbs of AP Green Insulating Cement, as well as 10lb containers of LDS Moldable and Q180 "fiberfrax" or something similar. A different type of ITC 100, basically, and about 10 feet of 1inch INswool.

    Total cost out of pocket? $62 for the Kastolite. Everything else was free.

    My weekends are pretty busy for the next month, But everything is finally here and will be coming together once I re-read everything I read and mixed together over the winter time.
    Last edited by RevRico; 05-22-2017 at 02:48 AM.

  6. #26
    Ive drilled my drain hole.

    Sorry if the picture doesn't come up, I tried hotlinking like I always do and it says remote file too large.

    Totally destroyed my hole saw, barely broke through the paint, but it left me a ring. So I used self tapping screws and various drill bits before deciding to sacrifice a chisel to the cause. Eventually, I made a drain hole. Not holding out hopes for the hole on the side now though, but I think if I make a pattern from that site I can cheat with an angle grinder and sawzall.

    Now, a big question. With all of my newfound refractory and insulating materials, what is the best way to go?

    I want to pour the floor from Kastolite, I know that.

    Here's the but: I think the best way to do it is all at once. Wrap the walls with Inswool, pour the floor solid, and add a coating on the Inswool, then since I have an ITC equivalent, line the sides with that. It would be easier to do, time wise, to do it in stages though. Floor, then walls.

    Is there a right and wrong way?

    I also just need to pick a vent size and I can do the lid.. I'm still thinking I screwed up and made the lid a bit short, but I should be able to cram some wool in and coat it with anything really.

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