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Thread: A thread for random quick questions

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by jagboy69 View Post
    Want a HUGE laugh??????? Look at the price of the infamous 5buck chinese type k meter from Paragon. WTF are they smoking?????????
    http://www.paragonweb.com/DT2-7_Digi..._Degrees_F.cfm
    Well jeez, it comes with the confidence of knowing it's from the the manufacturer. That's got to be worth 94 bucks to you. Plus it even comes with the battery! What the hell man!lol
    Seriously though, I've got an oldie I picked up on a trade deal about 5 years ago and have yet to fire up. Under the power panel is layer upon layer of dust and dirt plus the wires themselves are very hard. I haven't disturbed anything but I'll bet the insulation is just as brittle and crispy as can be. I guess if I get it dusted out without whacking the wires it would work but I certainly can't leave it alone. That's just my nature I guess. I'll probably end up rewiring it. How do yours seem? You said it was nasty but are the wires ok?

    Pete

  2. #52
    Pete.. The wires inside the control box are technically ok if they are not disturbed. But slightly bending them exposes the conductors inside. Not good. After much research, the wire is called TGGT.
    Here's a link to this stuff and it's cheap and here in the US. It's either 10g or 12g inside the control box, I couldn't decide so I went with the 10. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272498974635...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT A buck a foot and to replace ALL of it is only about 15ft with some spare. I'm trying to find good quality high temp copper ring terminals for 10g wire that fits the tiny screws. (always something I tell ya) The elements themselves are a PITA to sort out on ebay. Bought the biggest watt I could find from china that gave dimensions for the spiral wound Nicrome wire. http://www.ebay.com/itm/220952869584...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I have 4 and the plan is to OHM them to what I need and cut to spec. Paragon website says 9.25Ohm, mine measured at 11 probably because of age and use would be my guess. So add all this together and I'm still under $100bones for this setup. Just hoping the slow boat from china delivers something I can use or I'll find a spool of nichrome and wind my own. Hope this helps. We do enough crazy crap without risking electrocution from a cheap kiln.
    Visit me: WWW.HandcraftedLanterns.com
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  3. #53
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    Thanks for the feedback on the wire. It'll probably be spring before I get into it but this is getting me motivated to do something with the kiln. Floor space is at a premium in my workshop so it'll be nice for the kiln to at least have the potential to earn its keep.

    Pete

  4. #54
    Senior Member Zapins's Avatar
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    I'm looking for a decent chisel I can use to remove burs and bubbles from Si-Bronze. Does anyone have any recommendations on what type of steel it should be made out of? Vanadium steel? Bimetal? Something else?

    Any decent brands? I'd like a really thin tipped one (about 1/16") and a broad one (1/4").

  5. #55
    This might help Zap. I had to do some digging to find it. I saw you posted in it, but Richard didn't say what kind of steel to use. Tool steel maybe?
    http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showth...sharpen+chisel
    Visit me: WWW.HandcraftedLanterns.com
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  6. #56
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    Zapins, if you go to a firm which sells alloy steels and buy some "Silver steel" in flats and rounds in sizes you can use, you can grind these in the shapes shown in the above link by jagboy69 and quench harden the chisel ends by heating that end red hot and quenching in oil, this will make the chisel end super hard and leave the hammer end soft after this finally sharpen to points.

  7. #57
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    Richard didn't say what kind of steel to use.
    I don't know much about tool steels. If I were going to make some chisels, I would buy a few good chisels (not Chinese) (yard sale probably; figuring old is better) and forge them. If a reputable American or English manufacturer made them I would assume he used appropriate steel. (Even pre-Chinese Stanley.)

    Richard
    When I die, Heaven can wait—I want to go to McMaster-Carr.

  8. #58
    Senior Member Wolfcreek-Steve's Avatar
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    Chisels are usually just plain high carbon steel, but for simplicity, I would go to McMaster-Carr and buy either A-2 or S-7 in the size I needed. Both are air hardening, so you don't have to fool around with quenching oils. Another choice would be High Speed lathe tool bits, but you can't draw them back easily and they are harder than a hammer, so they will chew up the hammed rather than deforming.
    What is that squeaking noise?

  9. #59
    few misc questions if thats ok:
    Has anyone ever lost foam casted salt? I have a lot of leftover lite salt and ended up needing less than i thought for flux. It would probably be a little brittle but is it possible?
    Also looking into knifemaking because i discovered that you can actually make aluminium handles pretty simply. Can a simple charcoal foundry be used as a forge too? Also when pouring/sanding the aluminium for the handle, would that be the last step in the process assuming you heat-treated/quenched the knife before? Still have some studying to do on knifemaking, was just curious about these questions. Thanks

  10. #60
    stoli, I think it would absorb into the sand too much and you'd just end up with sand sculptures really, it tends to contract and shrink alot when cooling, which will cause it to crack and fall apart when cooling down. I tend to just melt them into ingots and stick them in sealed jars. If you do any type of zinc casting, you can add a 3rd part of calcium chloride to it and melt it down to create a really low temp flux that can be used with zinc alloys like zamak. Just make sure to keep it in a sealed jar as they like to absorb moisture, which will cause a very bad day when tossing it into molten metal.

    The charcoal furnace can easily double as a forge.

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