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Thread: New Engine Build

  1. #11
    Moderator DavidF's Avatar
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    Looking good! Cant wait to see the castings.
    A calm sea does not make a skilled sailor...
    http://thehomefoundry.org

  2. #12
    yea, I cant either, I need to make a flask big enough to handle the base, which is going to be fairly heavy when full, and I also am out of sodium silicate + co2, so cant make the core atm, so really stuck on that atm. Thats why Im getting the die filer and such out of the way first and I also need to clean up some of my ingots, I have so many buckets of cupcake ingots and scrap that I dont even have room for much else, and they really dont stack for crap, so was making some bar molds so they're easier to handle, so this weekend is just firing everything up for the year and getting things cleaned up, also getting the stuff done up that's been on the list to cast for the last year or two.

    After all of that is done, it's time to go get started on the engine.

  3. #13
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    A very good core material is Raw linseed oil and sand,[ forgot the percentages], baked then used in the mould, takes longer to make than sodium silicate/CO2 but breaks out of the casting so much easier. [ cheaper too ]
    Note the Aussie spelling of MOLD !

  4. #14
    yea, I forgot about the linseed oil method, I usually make my own sodium silicate, and I have a 24oz paintball gun tank that I use for co2, which usually lasts me a full summer, and only costs like 5 dollars to refill. I just need to get out and make some more waterglass and go get my tank refilled. I just wanted to get the parts all finished for my other projects first so that when I get ready to start on the steam engine, it has my full attention. I still have the die filer to do, angle plate, which Im kinda semi struggling with atm because I dont have a deep enough of a flask to cast it, and the rest of the parts for my gingery lathe.

    Also, I dont have any way to bake the cores, my toaster oven went into the trash a few weeks ago when the front door broke and was half falling off, it was held on with a steel wire so that I could use it. I figured it was more of a fire hazard than anything, so it went into the trash, lol.
    Last edited by cae2100; 02-18-2017 at 03:35 AM.

  5. #15
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    Making your own Sodium Silicate makes your method easier and quicker. For small cores i used an electric fry pan to bake the linseed, we used sodium silicate a lot and used beer gas to set it off, lots cheaper than pure CO2.
    Here in Australia during WW2 waterglass was sold as "Keep egg " to preserve chook eggs. [ bit of useless info ]

    - - - Updated - - -

    I am searching for a new project so making an engine might be the way to go, watching you with interest.

  6. #16
    I know waterglass used to be used to preserve eggs here also, but it was only used before refrigerators were really a common household item. Some parts of the US where they used to set off nuclear bombs in the desert and such, the radiation was buried under the ground pretty deep, but it still releases radon gas, which would flow into people's basements and kill them or poison them. Waterglass is pretty big for that use because it blocks the radiation and keeps the radon from seeping into the houses. I know they use it for sealing nuclear waste rods in, and they also pumped a large amount of sodium silicate into the water pipes in japan after fukashima had thier reactor meltdown. It kept leaking the radiation through the water coolant lines, and kept sending the radioactive water out to the sea, so they filled them full of sodium silicate and it hardened, acting as a block for the radiation.

    The stuff has alot of uses that Ive found really.

    If I were just starting on trying to build a steam engine, I would start with an A frame style since they're a piece of cake to make the patterns for, cast, and machine. I actually may make one after finishing up this engine so that I have a few different designs of engines really to take to shows rather than just one engine and the patterns. I'll probably end up making the one I have the patterns for here, the A frame, and the O&S, but make them with the same cylinder parts since that honestly has taken up around 80-90% of the time for me. The base of the thing took maybe a day or two, but the cylinder, steam chest, slide valve setup, eccentrics, etc, was what took months to get just perfect. The only things that are not shared between different designs would be bearing bases, and frame really, the rest can be used across all of the engines.

  7. #17
    can one of the admins please move this thread to "Model engines and engineering" category since this is an engine build? I cant figure out how to move it or if there is even a way to do it. Thanks in advance.

  8. #18
    Moderator DavidF's Avatar
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    Done......
    A calm sea does not make a skilled sailor...
    http://thehomefoundry.org

  9. #19
    thanks a ton david, I have a bunch of video and pics of the casting of these parts, and everything ready to be uploaded here and will upload them when I get a little more bandwidth again.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Robert's Avatar
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    Very pretty work. Following with interest. Are you going to run a real boiler or run it off compressed air? Is this a purpose built engine or just for show?
    Robert
    "Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right."
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