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Thread: Pressurized oil tank & Burner build - Zapins

  1. #51
    Senior Member Jammer's Avatar
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    I've always taken the formulas and tables as interesting little factoids. There are way too many variables in our little furnaces to make the formulas useful. Size of furnace. size of burner tube, exhaust, internal restrictions, back pressure...Etc.
    I just try something, if it works, great. If not, I try something else. I once calculated CFM of different blowers by blowing up a 50 gallon trash bag and then converting it to cubic feet per minute. It was really useless, some would blow up the bag and stop, others would blow up the bag until it burst. Volume and pressure makes a big difference. Too much air and you blow all the heat out of the top of your furnace, not enough and there's no heat. It's all a balance that matches your particular furnace.

    Really, it can take all the fun out of flames and melting stuff and things.

  2. #52
    Even though i now own my own bc blower, i am looking forward to someone testing one of these oversized hair dryers out for us. My forge needs a better blower than my nuke fan. I have that ribbon burner restricting my flow, but man does it put out a nice steady burn of little nozzlets. If this blower pans out to tolerate a little back pressure, i see myself going to all natural gas for the forge, furnace and the future burnout kiln. While i love burning used motor oil for free, i cant argue with the light it and walk away method. My typical pours wont be larger than zaps, so no need to be a total cheap skate. My only concern.... 16000 rippums is going to be a screamer... Mind sticking a db meter on your phone and getting us a 3ft reading if possible? Enquiring minds want to know.
    Jason

    Tractor supply sells this thing in stores for 20$ they claim 98db... not horrible, but loud enough.
    http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...ge-shop-blower
    Last edited by jagboy69; 01-08-2017 at 04:03 AM.
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  3. #53
    Senior Member Zapins's Avatar
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    I wish I had a natural gas line going to my house. I'd use that instead of propane bbq tanks or oil any day. I really like gas but it is so expensive.

    Looking forwards to seeing how your blower test goes.

  4. #54
    This is what I did to adapt a BC blower to the propane/waste oil burner.
    Lost foam patterns for the adaptor, base plate and inlet with a gate to restrict the flow. I split the inlet casting and turned a groove to fit over the flange on the fan.







    I added the junction box so the solenoid on the gas would close if the power was lost to the fan.

    When I built this furnace in the early '90's BC blowers were not as common as today. I built and ran the Gingery centrifugal for years pouring cast iron, but at 5000 ft, it just could not create the pressure I needed for the Indian heads. Part of the construction was balancing the disc, and even though I drove it directly at 3450 RPM the balance was fine.
    If you think you can't do it, you're right!

  5. #55
    Holy crap! I just came across can city on Vimeo. The guy that pulls the oil burner around Sao Paulo is using a 12vt version of this exact same 20buck junk blower. He painted his silver. Watch this and please tell me I'm not seeing stuff. It is 3am.



    https://vimeo.com/76584800
    Last edited by jagboy69; 01-08-2017 at 09:27 AM.
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  6. #56
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    Looks right to me...

    At 12vdc it makes me think this blower is more in line with something you would use to inflate air matresses. If that's the case it would be quite the screamer. If nothing else we know it can produce the volume needed to melt aluminum

    Sandcrab:. Nice rig.. effective and simple. Someone else here on the forum created an inlet blockage system. Made of plexiglass and is mechanically based on an iris i believe
    FLAME ON...!!!!

  7. #57
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    On the topic of natural gas for the furnace... What kind of volume would be needed to successfully cast iron or any of the higher temp metals...?

    I know we have a member that does iron with natural gas but the melts are tiny.

    For sense of scale lets say I wanted a full A16 of iron... Could you do that with a residential natural gas feed..?
    FLAME ON...!!!!

  8. #58
    So as not to hijack Zaps thread, I started a thread on air flow required to produce 100kbtu/hr here and looking for some feedback.

    http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showth...674#post197674

    Best,
    Kelly

  9. #59
    Senior Member r4z0r7o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zapins View Post
    Great! Thanks for testing it.

    I'm headed to the fleamarket in a few minutes so I might find something but probably not. You never find what you are after when you need it.
    $20-30 Red Amazon/NorthernTool junk-blower received and promptly disassembled. I took a ton of pics on the internals and will post them to a separate thread. I ran it a bit and IMHO it seems to be about in the butter-zone for a Zapp-size oil burner, possibly slightly over-powered, but not too ridiculous. I'd guesstimate it's pushing 100 - 300 CFM (unrestricted). It's about as loud as a vacuum cleaner - listed @ 16k RPM (not unreasonable).

    Summary:

    Good:
    * Thick plastic (2mm), chemical resistant, high-impact.
    * Brushed DC motor - would work well with a TRIAC-based speed-controller (cheap!)
    * Replaceable brushes, THICK solid-copper brush-holders.
    * Rubber nozel (unexpected) - EASY to adapt to about any size fittings on inlet or exhaust.
    * Inlet/exhaust ports reversible (can flip the field-windings!).
    * Proper roller-bearings on both shaft ends.
    * Trivial half-wave rectified electronics, positive snap-action switch.
    * Four-piece housing, split at motor shaft (i.e. easy to hack/adapt for other purposes or DIY blower cages.)
    * Dirt-cheap.

    Bad:
    * ABS plastic, keep away from heat (Tg is 220*F)
    * Brush holder connection to field-windings not very robust (copper-spring), easy to fix.
    * Back bearing is press-fit into plastic housing, difficult to remove commutator.
    * Really really really short cord (about 4-inches).
    * No dedicated motor cooling fan, it relies on bleed-air from either main intake -or- exhaust for cooling (i.e. don't block both).

    I'll post much more details in separate thread along with tear-down pics and measurements. I think it would be perfect, in fact I'm going to use the motor to drive the blower I built on my furnace. The main down-side I think is the plastic, but that's a problem shared with many other blowers, so, meh.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, things that are useful are simple."
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  10. #60
    Senior Member r4z0r7o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jagboy69 View Post
    Mind sticking a db meter on your phone and getting us a 3ft reading if possible? Enquiring minds want to know.[/URL]
    Lol, 96db possibly if you stick your ear right next to the thing. I don't have a db meter, but I don't think it's quite that loud. To my perfectly calibrated ears, it's quieter than a hair-dryer but noisier than a "quiet" shop-vac.

    You're not getting anything more than $20 worth of "stuff" to be sure, but I certainly wouldn't lob it in the bin next to other horrible-freight things I've paid much more for. My professional (heh!) opinion is that it's got merit, it's small & light, has good hack-ability, easy/simple to maintain/fix, and size-wise it seems just-about right:

    Kelly's thread seems to suggest you only need about 100CFM for 100k BTU, this blower is right in the neighborhood. I'm certainly going to use it.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, things that are useful are simple."
    - Mikhail Kalashnikov

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