Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Need custom CNC work done, need advice/help

  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    45
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Henriksen View Post
    That would be a 2 minute job on my laser if you provided the graphics. Not sure if there would be enough of a draft angle though.
    Great , I'm covering all options, graphic sent to your inbox.

  2. #12
    Sorry, should have said that I am not near my laser at the moment and won't be until beginning of May.

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    45
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Henriksen View Post
    Sorry, should have said that I am not near my laser at the moment and won't be until beginning of May.
    No problem, thanks so much.

  4. #14
    Senior Member BDubs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    128
    Quote Originally Posted by Ming View Post
    25mm-30mm diameter coin 2mm thick approx.
    Like this but with different characters, I have no idea if these characters are possible.
    Attachment 19311
    Attachment 19312

    The back doesn't need to be exact, but the front does, characters lines are 1mm wide and raised 1mm
    Thanks much for the laser etching idea!
    There is a reason you were quoted in the $500 neighborhood.

    You would save a lot of money on the front end if you were able to provide a vector format of the artwork (EPS, AI, DXF, vector PDF). Otherwise there is some digitizing of the original that needs to be done. This means either HiDef scanning (your typical scanner cannot do what is required) or manually vectorizing a photo of the part to create a vector format 'flat file', which is essentially line artwork. The script looks mostly flat and is only rounded from wear. It is possible to duplicate this sort of thing and/or add whatever draft you require to create a proper relief for sand impressions. Straight walls, even at shallow depths may cause you some issues both pulling the pattern and casting. This can be avoided by designing draft in from the start.

    This is what is required BEFORE you even get to machining and material costs, which consist of tooling (proper micro end mills are not cheap), machine time (cost of operator to run it, electricity and consumables) and profit. Getting the artwork right takes longer than machining, especially if there is back & forth before final approval.

    My advice would be to find a font that closely matches what you have on the coin. WhatTheFont is a good source for this, although I am not sure how well this works with Chinese script. Once you have a font that is close, the cost of artwork goes way down because all you need to do is change the characters - no different than if you were doing awards with different names on them. Once it's set up, things are easier to change & it doesn't cost you as much.

    If you want a proper job with a perfect master model, you want to have it CNC machined by someone that has the proper software, machine and know how to serve you. I would advise against 3D printing because you will get waterline marks in the Z. CNC will give you what you want.
    Jack of all trades, master of none, is often better than a master of one.

  5. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    45
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by BDubs View Post
    There is a reason you were quoted in the $500 neighborhood.

    You would save a lot of money on the front end if you were able to provide a vector format of the artwork (EPS, AI, DXF, vector PDF). Otherwise there is some digitizing of the original that needs to be done. This means either HiDef scanning (your typical scanner cannot do what is required) or manually vectorizing a photo of the part to create a vector format 'flat file', which is essentially line artwork. The script looks mostly flat and is only rounded from wear. It is possible to duplicate this sort of thing and/or add whatever draft you require to create a proper relief for sand impressions. Straight walls, even at shallow depths may cause you some issues both pulling the pattern and casting. This can be avoided by designing draft in from the start.

    This is what is required BEFORE you even get to machining and material costs, which consist of tooling (proper micro end mills are not cheap), machine time (cost of operator to run it, electricity and consumables) and profit. Getting the artwork right takes longer than machining, especially if there is back & forth before final approval.

    My advice would be to find a font that closely matches what you have on the coin. WhatTheFont is a good source for this, although I am not sure how well this works with Chinese script. Once you have a font that is close, the cost of artwork goes way down because all you need to do is change the characters - no different than if you were doing awards with different names on them. Once it's set up, things are easier to change & it doesn't cost you as much.

    If you want a proper job with a perfect master model, you want to have it CNC machined by someone that has the proper software, machine and know how to serve you. I would advise against 3D printing because you will get waterline marks in the Z. CNC will give you what you want.
    Thanks NDubs,

    Now I see why they're so expensive. I just assumed there was some type of scanning involved, didn't know about HiDef scanning etc.
    I tried what the font , but couldn't find any Chinese fonts there, but was able to fine tune my graphic a bit.
    Getting a better idea of what is involved in the processes. Rather steep learning phase diagram

    Ming

  6. #16
    Here is a somewhat crappy picture of a test I just did. The coin is etched in acrylic. It is 27mm in diamter (just over an inch for those with 12 fingers). Sand is homemade greensand. It takes the detail quite well.


    A different pic with higher resolution can be seen here

    http://iloapp.bustedbricks.com/data/...00_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Michael Henriksen; 06-23-2016 at 09:39 PM.

  7. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    45
    Blog Entries
    1
    Awesome work! I see it now!

  8. #18
    Senior Member Robert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, Nascarolina
    Posts
    2,888
    Wouldn't it be easier to photocopy pre -1992 US twenty dollar bills?
    R

    Edit: Very nice work Michael!
    "Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right."
    - Henry Ford (1863-1947)

    Forklift Project
    Sand Mixer

  9. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    45
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thank you Michael for your wonderful acrylic and wood? models!!
    Cast a few in pewter and they're fabulous. Almost ready for showtime.
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg

  10. #20
    Senior Member 4cylndrfury's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,625
    Blog Entries
    1
    Wow, those did turn out nice - I love the crisp edges!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •