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Thread: Smaller Gingery-esq. foundry for beginner

  1. #341
    Senior Member r4z0r7o3's Avatar
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    Assuming it's a metal bin, ya should be okay, though it takes a LOT of energy to melt ice and I can't imagine sand is a very good conductor :S

    Maybe use the damn melter along with wrapping the entire damn bin up in some damn cozy blankets?

    It may be easier time/energy wise, to go buy some warm, dry sand and warm kitty-litter, then mix up a small batch. Heck, you've got a whole family over to help mull it




    Furnace update: Got the entire lifting mechanism ready to go on, and the main wire-harness strung through the tubes. Also got the innards of the control-box re-installed and the acme-rod's bearings all in place. Not as far as I'd like to have gotten, but good progress for last-day rushing.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, things that are useful are simple."
    - Mikhail Kalashnikov

  2. #342
    Senior Member Tobho Mott's Avatar
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    My molding bench's sand bin is half of a plastic 55g barrel, I copied cae2100 AKA Chirpy's Tinkerings' bench and I'm really happy with it. So it's not metal, but I don't think those wires get as hot as flasks full of fresh castings, which haven't melted the barrel.yet. Just bucketing the sand and bringing it inside for a day or two would probably work fine, but ramming up molds on the dining room table during Christmastime is apparently frowned upon. I'll figure something out. Thanks for the suggestions!

    Jeff
    Tobho had learned to work Valyrian steel at the forges of Qohor as a boy. Only a man who knew the spells could take old weapons and forge them anew.

    How I built my oil furnace | My Photo Album | My Videos | TheHomeFoundry Forums

  3. #343
    Senior Member r4z0r7o3's Avatar
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    Right y'all, so...umm, good news and bad news, you know the routine.

    Bad news: I blew up two LEDs, and haven't a clue how to connect them so they don't blow up.

    Good news: I've got everything re-assembled, wired up, and custom LED boards built and ready to be connected.




    I've got 5 LEDs, all are running off of the +12v output from my PSU (it's normally totally separate from the +63v that drives the motor). One LED is just to show the power is on, it works fine. The other four I'd like to behave as follows:

    • LEDs above and below the up/down selector switch should light when it's thrown in the cooresponding direction. I think I can figure this one out, as I have an extra, unused pole I can use on the switch itself.
    • LEDs above and below the enable/e-stop switch, should only light when the motor is running in in the corresponding direction. This mainly serves to show when things should be moving and/or help trouble-shoot the rare-case of a limit-switch failing.


    I tried ganging the 0v rails of both PSU outputs together (See wire #0007 in schematic below), then wiring the LEDs 12v through the main switches. Unf. I did something wrong with the motor-running LEDs because they quickly released the magic smoke. All the LEDs have 470 ohm resistors in series, so the only explanation is: They got fed with a high-voltage from somewhere :S

    Since the motor's common lead is way down inside the lower cabinet, I'm thinking I should not gang the 0v rails, so the lights are really a totally separate circuit. Run two new wires to both limit switches Normally-Open poles (currently disused), and use them. Though, it will reverse the meaning, (LEDs light when limit is hit), I can live with that.

    Anyone have a better idea?

    "Things that are complex are not useful, things that are useful are simple."
    - Mikhail Kalashnikov

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